We arrived in Tonga after a long day’s beating to wind – as we headed down the channel to Neiafu, we were unsure that we would make it in time to check in on that day and expected we would have to anchor out for the night before completing the clear in process.  As it was, we arrived at the “fishing pier” – the designated docking point for customs – at about 3:30 – but docking was not an easy prospect.   The fishing pier is a high concrete dock with a wreck on one end and a sand bar on the other.   When we arrived, there were 2 fishing boats tied to the dock with a frighteningly small space left to dock.  I made one aborted attempt and then finally headed in – thankfully the fishermen who had been milling around on the dock jumped up to take lines and to hold the boat off the dock while we repositioned our fenders higher than our deck – in an effort to keep the boat from sliding right under the very high dock!!!  

In very short order, the first official arrived at the boat, letting us know that clearance would have to happen quickly, failing which we would have to pay an overtime fee.   After settling himself down below, the very lovely customs agent requested cookies and pop before beginning the paperwork.  In quick order, we were also joined by a biosecurity officer and the immigration officer – the boat was bursting at the seams!!!   Thankfully, everyone finished up their paperwork quickly – Owen printed out our boat name and registration number more times than he could count.   We had some fees to pay and mentioned that we could not do so until such time as we were able to obtain some Tongan cash – the biosecurity officer kindly walked us out of the dock area, directing us to the nearest bank machine.   The officials let us know that they would wait for us to come back for payment so that we would not need to come in the next day.   We quickly found the ATM and then grabbed quick ice-cream cones (we needed to break up the big bills provided by the machine so that we could pay the fees), and then returned to settle up.   Within an hour of arriving, we were departing the customs dock and headed to the mooring field – a quick pass through showed that all mooring balls seemed to be occupied.   We considered anchoring but realized that we were in 80 feet of water over a bottom that the reviews indicated did not provide good holding.   We decided to make a last pass through the mooring fields and spotted a mooring ball that we hoped was available.  We asked the nearest boat and they indicated that they thought it was available so we tied up and settled in.

The first night was such a delight – flat calm water after 12 days at sea.   We sat in the cockpit watching fruit bats come and go from the trees on shore and thanking our lucky stars for bringing us to this amazing place!   The next morning, we were sorting the boat when we were approached by the dive captain who owns the mooring balls – unfortunately, the one we were on was actually for one of his dive boats.   He was giving us suggestions as to where we could anchor in shallower water, when, just as we started to get untied, the boat in front of us left their mooring!!   We quickly grabbed it up – we were so thankful we did as it would be weeks before one was available again!   We headed into town to do a bit of exploring and to grab some groceries and dinner.   The town is shabby, but the people were the friendliest we have encountered anywhere!  While we were out, we saw posters advertising the Vava’u Sailing Festival – which was set to begin that weekend (this might explain the packed mooring balls!).   After realizing that the entry fee included several meals and a “cultural” day, we decided it was something not to be missed and we quickly bought tickets.

As a result, our first full week in Tonga was a whirlwind.   We began with the “Sausage Sizzle” – a barbq hosted by the boat yard on the Saturday.   We ran into people we hadn’t seen since Mexico, met up with some of our fellow “Trapped in Paradise” boaters, and met some new people.   Monday was a dinner with a presentation by one of the New Zealand marinas, Tuesday was a breakfast with another New Zealand presentation, Wednesday was a race day (we didn’t race), followed by a barbq, Thursday was the Cultural Day and Friday was a wrap up dinner.    Thursday was our favorite day of the week – we were bussed over to the other side of the Island where we were able to see umus in action (pit ovens) and try the yams being cooked in the ground, wrapped in banana leaves.  We saw a weaving demonstration and had dancers perform for us.   Lunch was a monstrous buffet with roasted pig, yams, salads, rice, corned beef cooked in banana leaves and stewed papaya.   There was so much food, I literally had a heaping plate in one hand and was holding the papaya (which was served in an underripe papaya shell) in the other hand.   The afternoon was finished with a Kava ceremony. We all had the opportunity to try this traditional drink that forms such a strong part of the Polynesian culture. Kava looks like mud water and the taste was somewhat similar to Buckley’s – they serve a fairly large bowl of it and you are expected to drink it all – we managed, but I don’t think I felt my tongue until hours later!!! We had a wonderful day and so thoroughly enjoyed our very small glimpse into the Tongan culture.

There were several good restaurants in town, which made for great nights out.  Our favorite perhaps was the floating pub – the Hideaway.   The Hideaway is owned by a Canadian couple and serves margaritas made from lime juice that is squeezed from the limes in their own tree.   As for food, you can have anything you want so long as it is fish and chips (or fish or chips!).   We had so many great afternoons visiting with the owners, Bear and Char, and with other cruisers.  On one particularly fun afternoon, a group of guys off an Irish boat came over with their instruments and we had an enjoyable afternoon listening to them jam.   Perhaps the most fun part of that afternoon was that a group of locals had swam over for a drink and they were probably the most entertained by the music!   Bear and Char also own a deli in town and it was there that we were able to find the first good steaks we had had since leaving Canada, along with chicken breast, roasted sliced ham and other foods we hadn’t seen in forever!!!   But to make me an even bigger fan, Bear broke out the Pierogi maker one weekend – what a treat those were!!

While we were so enjoying our time in town, we were also eager to get out to explore the anchorages around the Vava’u group.   We were so pleasantly happy to realize that many of them were very protected and flat calm – so much like cruising at home.    Once the sailing festival wrapped up, we loaded up on groceries and headed just a few miles around the corner to a beautiful anchorage with crystal clear water.   There were several boats in the anchorage but even so it didn’t feel too crowded.   I inflated my paddle board and Owen launched his kayak and for the first time in a very long time we felt like we were casually cruising – it was delightful!!!  Our big adventure from our first anchorage was to take our dinghy and motor around to Swallow’s Cave – it was creepy cool to dinghy in through the entrance and arrive at a cave that was sadly covered in graffiti left by past visitors.   We opted not to get in the water there (we had both read that sea snakes like the cave!) but we drifted around in the dinghy – the only boat in there for a bit – we were just heading out of the cave when a tour boat came barreling in – good timing on our part!

After a few days in our first anchorage, we were itching to get out and explore some more.   We initially intended to head out to an anchorage that was very near to a reef we hoped to be able to snorkel.  Unfortunately, the winds were blowing right into the anchorage and having a reef right behind us suddenly didn’t seem like a good idea – we did a little donut in the anchorage and then headed about 6 miles away to another flat calm anchorage.   We were midway on our passage to this anchorage when we heard a mayday call on the radio.   Oddly – no one else answered it so we got on the radio with the caller – he was solo sailing and had just taken the boom to his face.   He was just a couple of miles out of the harbour but his call was not getting through.  We reached out to the operator of the Hideaway to find out if there was a local contact for emergencies – turned out it was him.   We still seemed to be the only boat that was able to consistently communicate with the other sailor so we kept communicating with him while Bear mustered a local boat, a nurse and a couple of sailors (one of which was Canadian Coast Guard) to head out to help.   Within a couple of hours, the sailor was on board the local boat, being brought in for medical attention and the cruisers were bringing his boat into the dock.  It was a tense afternoon but before we knew it, everything was fine on the emergency front and we were approaching the new anchorage.  

The difference with this anchorage was that there was not really a beach – we knew that people were walking from this spot into town but we couldn’t exactly figure out how they were doing it.   As it turned out, we were soon joined in the anchorage by a couple of other boats that we knew and it was decided that we should do a trek out to Veimumuni Cave – a natural spring pool in a cave just above the high tide line and about a half hour walk from the anchorage.   The day we were to go we joined the other boaters on a very shallow beach that we hadn’t even been able to see from where we were anchored.   We put out stern anchors and tied to shore, hoping that we would not be high and dry when we got back.   From there we climbed a short hill, walked through a pasture (we had to wait for a couple of cows to get up off the path to let us through – thankfully the bull was tied up), down a road through one small village and then through another village to the cave.   We did have a short detour though – we were headed through the first village when we discovered a small puppy lying on the side of the road – he couldn’t stand up and we were worried that he had been hit by a car.   We debated how we should handle it – there didn’t appear to be anyone home at the house where the dog was (though we didn’t know for sure if he was from that house).     It was so hot and he was obviously in distress.   There are no vets on Vava’u and we worried that he was not going to be able to receive care.   We reached out to a volunteer group that coordinated some animal care – bringing in a vet once a year.   We were not getting a response from them on Whatsapp – we were about ready to walk into town and try to radio them when we remembered that there was a restaurant near to where we were that joined in on the morning net – so we knew they had a radio.   One of the couples stayed with the puppy while the rest of us headed to the Humpback Lodge to see if we could get some help.   They immediately offered us the radio and then suggested that they should go pick up Dave, Denise and the puppy.   In the meantime, Denise had finally reached the volunteer group and it was finally decided that the puppy would come to the restaurant and then they would do a video call with a vet.   We were so appreciative of knowing that the puppy would be well taken care of.   We left him behind at the restaurant and headed off to the cave.   It was again a bit creepy but we did go swimming this time!  After a short swim, we backtracked and decided that, as we were going to pass by the restaurant again, it was a good idea to stop for lunch and to check in on the puppy!   We had a lovely lunch and then traced our steps back to the beach.  Unfortunately, we had not left the boats anchored out far enough and found our dinghies high and dry!!   Luckily, a big group makes quick work on getting the boats walked out to the water and we were soon floating again and headed back to our boats.

We finally realized we were running out of food and fuel (as we were still running the boat for hours every day to keep the batteries charged) and decided to return to town – it felt like coming home!!  Thankfully there was more room on the mooring balls and we were able to grab one.  

And so our time in Tonga went – a week or so in town, followed by a period of time out at anchor, returning when we finally needed supplies.  We snorkeled on bommies in the anchorages and tried to explore on the paddle board and kayak.   Sadly, I went to put my paddle board in the water one morning only to find that it was deflating.   An inspection showed that one of the seams was opening up.  I dug out the pvc glue and got to work patching it.   Unfortunately, as soon as I inflated it again, it opened up a seam next to the original patch.   After a couple of attempts at fixing it, I finally had to admit that years of being out on the back deck in only a mesh bag had allowed the glue to start to deteriorate – my board had to be given last rites and retired.  

We joined a garbage clean up during one of our times in town – one of the local dive-masters arranges a pick up nearly every week – it was a bit disheartening to realize how much garbage was around – especially as there are garbage cans everywhere – we spent two hours and picked up about 40 bags of trash between the group – we were hot and sweaty by the time we were done but were happy to have helped out.    

We were able to meet up with several other cruisers during our time in town, meeting for drinks at the Hideaway, dinner at several restaurants and a return visit to the Humpback Lodge to check on the pup.   We were so happy to find out that the owner of the dog had not wanted it back and the owner of the restaurant, having fallen in love with him, decided to keep him – she had renamed him Survivor!  He was thriving – we were there on a particularly busy night and he just made laps of the restaurant and kitchen, being scooped up by patrons for quick cuddles as he scurried by!

As the season latened the weather did become a bit more unpredictable with more showers and some stronger wind.   We had a few systems come through –  during most of these we just battened down the hatches and hid out below – which of course made for a steamy hot boat!!   One of the storms however, we were hanging out below when we heard a radio call from a 10 year old boy advising that his Dad was in town and his boat – a 70 foot catamaran – was dragging.  In short order we had four dinghies tied to the back of the boat and Bear, who ran the deli and the Hideaway, was hunting around town to find the Dad.   Thankfully the kiddo on board was able to find the battery switches so we could get the engine fired up and he knew how to work the windless (it had a few quirks) so we were able to get the boat safely away from the rocks.  Dad showed up in due course and the boat was soon secured to a mooring ball.  The entire time we were working to secure the boat it absolutely monsooned – we were drenched to the skin and actually pretty cold by the time we made it back to the boat!

We were saddened to realize that we were going to quickly be left behind in Tonga as most boats were making their way to New Zealand for cyclone season.   There were a few false starts, boats were all set to go only to have the weather take a turn for the worse.   As much as we felt bad that people had done all their prep for nothing, we were happy to be able to get out for one more visit, one more trivia night at the pub.   Unfortunately for some of our friends, some of the false starts turned out to be due to damage – one boat returned because they blew up 4 sails in 3 days.   Another returned when they felt some bad play in their rudder – they decided to haul out and leave the boat in Tonga to be repaired.   We were also horrified to hear that a boat lost their mast midway between Tonga and New Zealand – they had actually re-rigged in the Marquesas after discovering broken strands on their rigging on their Pacific crossing (on rigging that had been done new in Panama).   Thankfully, they were near several other boats and there was no other damage to their boat.   Three of the boats transferred fuel to the boat and one of them transferred another crew member.   They had a long, slow motor to New Zealand but made it safely.

Finally, after watching our friends head out north and south, and knowing that the friends who had put their boat on the hard were going to be flying out soon, we had to admit that it was time to move along.   We struggled with leaving – we were loving Tonga so much.   We did have a reservation in Fiji and we knew that, in the event of a cyclone, we would be much safer on the dock than at anchor or on a mooring ball, and so, sadly and with some regret, we finally did our last provisioning and cleared out of Tonga for what we hoped would be a 4 or 5 day trip to Fiji – as it turned out, we ended up taking a detour that added nearly a 100 miles to our trip – but kept us clear of the lightning and squalls from the South Pacific Convergence Zone, which had settled in just to the north of Fiji.   It ended up being a 6 day trip but, other than quite a lot of rain showers, it was a relatively easy passage.

It is so hard to put our finger on what we loved so much about Tonga – it may be that it was the first time in a long time that we had the opportunity to slow down, or that we were finally able to connect with some other cruisers.   Perhaps it was that the people were unfailingly lovely or that the anchorages were the most serene we have had since leaving Canada.  Whatever the reason, we have both left a piece of our hearts in the beautiful paradise that is Tonga.